Phantom Ranch: The Bottom of the Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon National Park | Saturday – Wednesday, January 31 – February 4, 2026

 

Phantom Ranch is a place where nature, culture, and history mingle deep in the heart of the Grand Canyon.

Trails from the North and South Rim meet here. The only two bridges across the Colorado River for hundreds of miles span across the gorge near Bright Angel Creek. Hikers, river runners, and mule trains carrying riders and supplies all converge here as they journey through the canyon. The clear, cool waters of Bright Angel Creek cascade down the north side of the canyon bringing rock and debris that fans out into a large delta along the Colorado River. Ancestral Puebloan people called this area home, hunting and farming at this place in the canyon. Nestled in a small cluster of cottonwoods lies a historic tourist camp that has drawn visitors from around the world to relax near the little stone cabins designed by one of the most prolific and important architects in Grand Canyon history.

Phantom Ranch is a crossroads, with many stories to tell.

– Yolonda Youngs

 

Just about a year ago I was able to secure reservations for a three night stay in a cabin at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, which Diane and I were looking forward to. We had both thoroughly enjoyed our very first visit to Phantom Ranch just over two years ago, so when the opportunity came up to return- we jumped at it! After making the reservations our initial plans were to spend a few relaxing days at the bottom of the Grand Canyon together while also taking a day to hike up the North Kaibab Trail to Ribbon Falls while we were down there. Of course, little did we know at that time that the Dragon Bravo Fire would decimate the North Rim and close the North Kaibab Trail or that Diane would later find out that she had a meningioma that would require surgery in October. Even after surgery we still had hopes that Diane would be able to go on this trip, but after some setbacks that delayed her Radiation Therapy to mid-January, she would not be finishing up the therapy until later in February and unfortunately would not be able to join me on this trip.

 

As the dates of the trip neared, I held up hope that the Park would reopen the North Kaibab Trail to Ribbon Falls, but it didn’t appear that was going to happen in time. Also, with the closure of the Silver Bridge and River Trail, there weren’t going to be a lot of hiking options from Phantom Ranch this time, aside from the Clear Creek Trail.

 

Shortly before my trek to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, Phantom Ranch closed for over a week because of waterline issues and I wasn’t sure if it was going to open back up in time, so I started to make alternate plans for hiking from the South Rim. Thankfully, just a week before the trip Phantom Ranch was able to open up again. Sometimes it really feels like you have to win a lottery twice to go to Phantom Ranch these days- first you need to actually get the reservations, then you need it to remain open when you are scheduled to be there!

 

In order to split up the drive to the Grand Canyon in half, which would give me a little extra time on the South Rim the day I arrived, I left from work on Friday afternoon with plans to spend the night near Bluff. I stopped for a quick dinner at Milt’s in Moab and then continued on to Sand Island where I stopped to go for a sunset hike along the upper section of the newly constructed Bluff River Trail.

Following the Sand Island Bench Trail above the San Juan River.

San Juan River Sunset

Casa Del Eco Mesa

After returning to my vehicle well after dark, I drove over to Butler Wash and found a place to spend the night and went right to bed. I was up early on Saturday morning and driving across the Navajo Nation before the sun had even started to come up. After grabbing an early lunch in Flagstaff I continued around San Francisco Mountain and across the Coconino Plateau to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. I had a few hours before I could check-in to the lodge, so I went for a walk along the West Rim Trail from Bright Angel Lodge to Hopi Point and back.

West Rim Trail

A view into the Grand Canyon from the Rim Trail.

I stopped for a quick photo of the South Rim Fire Lookout before returning the way I had come.

After checking in to my room at the Powell Lodge and eating dinner at the Harvey House Cafe, I drove over to the trailhead for Shoshone Point and hiked out to the end to watch the sunset.

Shoshone Point

After hiking about a mile further towards Yaki Point I returned to Shoshone Point to watch the sunset.

A view from Shoshone Point at sunset.

Sitting on the edge at Shoshone Point.

I returned to my room after dark, packed my backpack for the next few nights at Phantom Ranch and then tried to get early, but sleep did not come easy this night and I slept pretty terribly. Still, I got up early again on Sunday morning so I could start hiking down the South Kaibab Trail under the light of the full Snow Moon and watch the sunrise from along Cedar Ridge.

Hiking down the South Kaibab Trail with the full moon straight ahead of me.

I just love watching the glow of the Grand Canyon before sunrise from the South Kaibab Trail!

Snow Moon above the Grand Canyon

I watched the moon set shortly before the sun came up from Ooh Aah Point.

South Kaibab Sunrise

Canyon Layers at Sunrise

Across the Canyon

Butte Light

A mule train passed by me as I continued down the trail.

Light in the Canyon

O’Neill Butte

South Kaibab Trail

Making my way down to Skeleton Point.

Red & Whites

I spotted this bighorn just above the trail as I made my way down the switchbacks.

Redwall Skylight Arch

Once I reached The Tipoff Resthouse I decided to take a little detour east along the Tonto Trail since I wasn’t in a hurry and didn’t want to get down to Phantom Ranch too early.

After my little detour I returned to The Tipoff and continued on down the trail.

Following the lower South Kaibab Trail through the Tapeats and into the Granite Gorge.

Looking across the Granite Gorge to the Clear Creek Trail, which I planned to hike the following day.

Passing by the River Trail closure.

As I descended the switchbacks I watched the Kaibab Suspension Bridge emerge from the shadows.

Entering the Dark Tunnel

Across the Black Bridge

Welcome to Phantom Ranch!

Phantom Ranch Cabins

After getting settled into my cabin and resting for a while, I went for a very short evening walk up Bright Angel Canyon to the North Kaibab Trail Closure.

Then I walked back downstream towards the river to the other end of the River Trail closure. I sure have been collecting a lot of photos of trail closures in the Grand Canyon these past few years!

Next, I followed Bright Angel Creek to the Colorado River and sat on a sandy beach there for a while. It made me really start looking forward to getting back on the river in about two months!

I returned to my cabin and got ready to return to the Canteen for the Stew Dinner after dark.

After getting a good night of sleep I was up early on Monday morning for a hearty breakfast at the Canteen and then started hiking up the Clear Creek Trail in the dark. I stopped at the Phantom Ranch Overlook at dawn and waited there to watch the beginning of the sunrise before I continued hiking up the trail.

Looking up Bright Angel Canyon from the Clear Creek Trail.

I stopped and waited at this stone bench for sunrise to arrive.

 

The Clear Creek Trail was built in 1934 and 1935 by the Civilian Conservation Corp (Company 818). It was originally built as a mule trail so visitors at Phantom Ranch would be able to gain access to a scenic side canyon. At the same time, Clear Creek was stocked with trout so that visitors could do a bit of fishing. All mule activity to Clear Creek ceased with World War II, a period when the park experienced extremely limited visitation. Today, this is the only trail traversing the Tonto Platform on the north side of the Colorado River. Because the slope is south facing, the hike from Bright Angel Campground to Clear Creek is warmer than similar trails in the fall and spring; with the summer typically being too hot to hike.

 

Looking down into an agave plant growing at the edge of the Clear Creek Trail.

As I continued up the trail I had a nice view across the Granite Gorge to the switchbacks of the lower South Kaibab Trail above the Black Bridge.

The light flooding into the Upper Granite Gorge was spectacular this morning!

I continued following the trail up through the Tapeats Sandstone until it reached the top of the Tonto Platform.

I continued following the trail across the Tonto towards Zoroaster Canyon.

Once I was just below Demaray Point I left the trail and found a nice overlook at the edge of Zoroaster Canyon where I sat down to eat lunch and rest for a while. This spot was just above the final campsite on our river trip last year, although I couldn’t quite see it from here.

I passed below these stacked arches on my way back to Phantom Ranch in the early afternoon.

I really enjoyed hiking along the portion of the trail that followed the rim of the Upper Granite Gorge.

Following the trail back down into Bright Angel Canyon.

Phantom Ranch Overlook

After relaxing at Phantom Ranch for a while, I walked back down to the Colorado River and revisited the Bright Angel Pueblo.

Then I continued upstream a little ways past the Kaibab Suspension Bridge.

I spent Tuesday mostly hanging around Phantom Ranch and reading since there weren’t many other hiking options that were open. I also drank a lot of lemonade!

After another early breakfast at the Canteen I initially thought about hiking up to Utah Flats, but I wasn’t really feeling like following a steep, loose and rough route this morning, so instead I hiked up the Clear Creek Trail again and found a place to sit and read just above the Granite Gorge for a while. Since I didn’t do much hiking today, I only took a few photos.

The Battleship & Hopi Point

Phantom Ranch, Cabin 5

Sumner Butte

On Wednesday morning I was up one last time to catch the early breakfast again before starting my hike out of the canyon. Surprisingly, I was the only one at the early breakfast this morning, which was a nice treat before leaving. After breakfast I finished packing up and started hiking back up the South Kaibab Trail in the dark.

I made it to The Tipoff at dawn and then watched the sunrise from the Tonto Platform as I hiked west along the Tonto Trail to the Bright Angel Trail.

First Light in the Canyon

Grand Canyon Morning

I enjoyed plenty of solitude along the Tonto Trail this morning.

Garden Creek

I made it to the Bright Angel Trail and Havasupai Gardens by 9:00am and had not seen another person on the trails- I didn’t even see anyone camped at the campground as I passed by. I wouldn’t encounter any other hikers on the trail until I was on the switchbacks just below the 3 Mile Resthouse.

I spotted some pictographs along the trail that I had missed last year.

Bright Angel Trail Tunnel

As I hiked up the final switchbacks I encountered a little traffic blocking the trail…

Fading Deer Pictographs

My goal for reaching the rim was 1:00pm, but I ended up making it to the Bright Angel Trailhead before noon, even with the additional miles of the Tonto Trail along the way! I guess I’m in better shape than I thought!

Once I was back on the South Rim, I hopped onto a shuttle bus which eventually took me back to my vehicle. Then I left the Park and made my way back to Flagstaff for the night. When I was trying to get to sleep later that evening I kept hearing sirens going off and wondered if this was a common occurrence for Flagstaff? I would learn later the following day that it wasn’t a common situation and that there was actually a shootout that resulted in a helicopter crash just over a mile away from the hotel I was staying at! After another not-so-great night of sleep, I left bright and early on Thursday morning to spend the rest of the week searching for rock art in the Palavayu!

 

I guess it figures that while I was down at the bottom of the Grand Canyon the Park finally announced that the North Kaibab Trail to Ribbon Falls would be reopening again in early March. While that may not have done me any good this time, hopefully I will be able to take another trip down to Phantom Ranch with Diane so we can go on that hike together!

 

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