Beyond the High Plateaus: Across the Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon District
Arizona Strip & Grand Canyon Wanderings Inspired by A Canyon Voyage
Monday – Friday, September 30 – October 4, 2024
Before the observer who stands upon a southern salient of the Markagunt Plateau is spread out a magnificent spectacle. The altitude is nearly 11,000 feet above the sea, and the radius of vision reaches to the southward nearly a hundred miles. In the extreme distance is the calm of the desert platform, its surface mottled with indistinct lights and shades, too remote to disclose their meaning. Against the southeastern horizon is projected the pale blue escarpment of the Kaibab, which stretches away to the south until the curvature of the earth carries it out of sight. To the southward rise in merest outline, and devoid of all visible details, the dark mass of Mount Trumbull and the waving cones of the Uinkaret. Between these and the Kaibab the limit of the prospect is a horizontal line, like that which separates the sea from the sky.
C.E. Dutton, 1882
Last year while I was reading A Canyon Voyage by Frederick S. Dellenbaugh about the second Powell Expedition that went down the Green and Colorado Rivers in 1871 and 1872, the text also spoke of their time spent reconnoitering and triangulating throughout the strip of land that is found north of the Grand Canyon and south of Utah state line, which is what motivated me to return to the Arizona Strip this year so I could could explore some of the peaks, plateaus and highpoints of this expansive region for myself. I also figured that this would make for a great extension of my exploration of the High Plateaus of Utah by continuing south through the Grand Staircase to the plateaus of the Grand Canyon District. So after leaving the Kaibab Plateau behind, Jared and I took off south across the Kanab Plateau from Fredonia on Monday afternoon and set out to spend the rest of the week making our way across the Arizona Strip. However, with temperatures much warmer than usual for this time of the year all over the southwest, we ended up taking it easy, relaxing in the shade at higher elevations as much as possible and having to cancel some of our hiking plans that it was just too hot for. Still, this was a great introduction of the plateaus of the Grand Canyon and I look forward to returning in the future to finish the hikes we couldn’t do this time around.
The Colorado River of the West runs across the middle of the district in a very tortuous course, averaging west-southwest. The portion which lies north of the river has been studied in considerable detail. Upon the northern side six subdivisions may be recognized. Upon the extreme north is a series of terraces carved by erosion out of the Mesozoic and lower Eocene strata, which, covering all the region of the High Plateaus, suddenly terminate in a succession of high cliffs, dropping step by step to lower and lower formations, like a great stairway. At the foot of the stairway is the comparatively smooth platform of the summit Carboniferous, which stretches southward and southeastward into central Arizona for 150 miles or more. The “Terraces” form one subdivision, and are a border country between the High Plateaus on the north and the Grand Cañon district on the south, and may be regarded as the appanage of either district. The main Carboniferous platform north of the river may be subdivided into five distinct plateaus. On the west is the Sheavwits Plateau next in order towards the east is the Uinkaret; the third is the Kanab Plateau, the fourth is the Kaibab, and the fifth is the Paria Plateau.
C.E. Dutton, 1882
Sage Benchmark: Highpoint of the Kanab Plateau
For five or six miles south of the Pipe Spring promontory there is a gentle descending slope, and thence onward the surface feebly ascends through a distance of thirty miles to the brink of the Grand Cañon. Thus the range of vision is wide, for we overlook a gentle depression of great extent. Though the general impression conveyed is that of a smooth or slightly modulated country, yet we command a far greater expanse than would be possible among the prairies. To the southeastward the Kaibab looms up, seemingly at no great distance, and to the southwestward the flat roof of Mount Trumbull is more than a blue cloud in the horizon. Towards this latter mountain we take a straight course. The first few miles lie across drifting sands bare of all vegetation. The air is like a furnace, but so long as the water holds out the heat is not enervating and brings no lassitude.
C.E. Dutton, 1882
Our first stop after leaving Fredonia was to hike to the Sage Benchmark which is located on the top of a cinder cone just off the road south of Antelope Valley. When I was doing research for this trip I was having a difficult time finding the highpoint of the Kanab Plateau with different sources having conflicting information about the highpoint and none of them making much sense to me. However, after looking over maps of the area for myself, I believe the highest point is the Sage Benchmark at 6,459 feet. However, if anyone out there thinks it’s something different I’d love to hear about it in the comments below!
This was our view of the Sage Cinder Cone as we started hiking towards it. Even though it was pretty warm out this afternoon, we got lucky with clouds blocking the sun during most of our climb to the top, so the hike wasn’t too uncomfortable!
As we starting gaining elevation we had a good view of the other cinder cones in the area.
It didn’t take us very long to reach the summit.
Sage, 1953
Dappled light danced across the landscape below us.
Instead of returning the same way, we continued a loop around the rim of the cone and came down the other ridge.
Mount Trumbull: Highpoint of the Uinkaret Plateau & Mountains
In the southern part of the Uinkaret there are several masses which are much more than low eminences, which in fact attain nearly or quite the dignity of mountains or at least of very large hills, and which preserve the entire Permian series with thick bodies of basalt overlying it. Two of these are especially noteworthy. The loftiest and most conspicuous, is Mount Trumbull, a broad, well-defined, and isolated mass rising nearly 2,000 feet above the plains at its base and nearly 3,000 feet above the Toroweap Valley near its southeastern flank.
C.E. Dutton, 1882
After returning to our vehicles from the Sage Benchmark Cinder Cone, we continued on into the Uinkaret Mountains so we could find a campsite at a higher elevation where it wouldn’t be as hot, and so we would be close to the Mount Trumbull Trailhead which we planned to hike in the morning since Mount Trumbull is the highpoint of both the Uinkaret Plateau and the Uinkaret Mountains.
There were some nice colors in the sky as we followed the road around the base of Mount Trumbull and found a campsite near the trailhead.
On Tuesday morning we started hiking before sunrise so we could beat the heat. There were very few openings in the trees along the entire trail, but I did manage to get this view of Mount Logan at sunrise.
The Uinkaret Mountains
Although the first half of the trail to the summit was very easy to follow, the second half kept disappearing into the pine needles and was much more difficult to keep track of. After getting off course a few times we did eventually make it to the summit.
Trumbull, 1933
There were no views from the actual summit of Mount Trumbull, but we were able to walk to the edge a short distance north for this view.
Mount Logan: Highpoint of the Sawmill Mountains
Two or three miles southwest of Trumbull is Mount Logan, a tabular mass of much greater area but somewhat lower in altitude. In respect to structure, it is very similar to Trumbull, having nearly if not quite the whole Permian series, with a lava cap of varying- thickness, but seldom exceeding 300 feet, and usually from 100 to 200 feet thick. South of Logan and distant about five miles is a platform which may perhaps be regarded as the continuation of the Logan mass in that direction. A depression exists between the two sufficient to warrant a topographical distinction if we desire it, though not so great as to destroy entirely the continuity of the two if we prefer that view of the case.
C.E. Dutton, 1882
After returning from the summit of Mount Trumbull we drove south a few miles across the Uinkaret Volcanic Field to the trailhead for the trail to the summit of Mount Logan, which is the highest point of the small Sawmill Mountains range.
Near the trailhead was a nice overlook to Mount Trumbull.
It was a short and easy hike up to the summit of Mount Logan.
There was a very hazy view over Whitmore Canyon and Whitmore Point.
There was also a nice view of Hells Hole just below us. It kind of reminded me of a much smaller version of Cedar Breaks.
After returning to the trailhead we decided to stick around in the cool and comfortable temperatures of the shaded Ponderosa forest for a while before heading back down into the warmer open desert. So we spent a few hours just reading and relaxing in the shade until it was time to start making our way over to Toroweap in Grand Canyon National Park.
On our way down we took one last short walk through the Mount Logan Wilderness to an overlook at the edge of the Sawmill Mountains.
Foot Canyon: The Petroglyphs of Nampaweap
Before leaving the Uinkaret Mountains we decided to take one last little detour so we could revisit the petroglyphs at Nampaweap, which means ‘Foot Canyon’ in Paiute. It was surprising to see that some of the areas were now roped off which made it difficult or impossible to see some of the better petroglyphs found here. Unfortunately, it was also still very warm out and the darker-colored rocks here really radiated the heat, so it wasn’t a lot of fun visiting the petroglyphs this afternoon.
Exploring the Esplanade: A Return to Toroweap
After leaving Nampaweap we continued to follow the dusty roads over to Toroweap where we checked in with the volunteer Ranger and then grabbed a site in the campground for the night. It seems that the high temperatures must have scared some other visitors away since there was only one other campsite occupied at the campground this night. We found a site on the other side of the campground from them so it felt like we had the place to ourselves. Since we had arrived later in the afternoon we quickly headed over to the Toroweap Overlook to watch and photograph the sunset.
Toroweap Point
Wandering around the Esplanade at the edge of the canyon.
I loved the way the light was streaming into the canyon here.
Toroweap at Sunset
The Colorado River
Evening light in the Grand Canyon.
Here’s one last shot at dusk before we drove back to our campsite, ate dinner and went to bed early.
Although it wasn’t hot enough out overnight to be uncomfortable while trying to sleep and I slept pretty good, I also didn’t use my sleeping bag at all this night. On Wednesday morning we were up early again and back at the Toroweap Overlook in time to watch the sunrise.
Good morning from Toroweap.
After watching the sunrise from the Toroweap Overlook we went on a short hike around the Saddle Horse Loop Trail before it started to warm up too much.
Saddle Horse Canyon Overlook
Even though I had booked us a campsite at the Tuweep Campground for two nights, we discussed our options and decided we would rather head for higher country this night instead of sticking around for a second night while trying to stay cool and in the shade all day long. So after our morning hike we packed up camp, let the volunteer Ranger know we weren’t going to be staying for the second night and headed out into the Grand Canyon – Parashant National Monument.
Overlooks of the Grand Canyon – Parashant National Monument
After driving back across the Uinkaret Mountains and stopping to check out the site of a historic sawmill and segment of the Temple Trail, we crossed Potato Valley and descended the switchbacks down through the Hurricane Cliffs until we reached the Mormon settlement of Mount Trumbull.
We stopped to visit the Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse.
This old truck was out back.
Which way should we go next?
After following the main road south towards the Bar X Ranch in Whitmore Canyon, we took a rougher road up to the top of Whitmore Point and made our way out to the overlook at the end.
Parashant Canyon
It was very smoky or hazy out today…
Whitmore Point Road
Whitmore Point
Whitmore, 1953
Whitmore Point Overlook
We also stopped at the nearby Parashant Canyon Overlook.
We returned to Whitmore Canyon and continued south to the edge of the Grand Canyon.
Whitmore Canyon Overlook
I had hoped we would be able to hike down to the river on this trip, but with temperatures clocking in at over 100 degrees that was just not happening this time…
Parked at the brink of the canyon.
I liked the way you could see all the old lava flows pouring over the edges of the canyon in this area.
Late in the afternoon we went searching for some pictographs on the Esplanade while it was still very warm out. We didn’t find what we were looking for, but we did find a small panel of red pictographs that made the hunt worth it. I definitely want to come back when it’s cooler out to see what else we might have missed…
Mount Dellenbaugh: Highpoint of the Shivwits Plateau
The westernmost is the Sheavwits Plateau. Its western boundary is a gigantic escarpment, overlooking the Grand Wash, a broad and deep valley descending from the north to the Colorado, and reaching the river at the mouth of the Grand Cañon. From the crest of the escarpment the plateau has a very gentle slope towards the east and northeast, for a distance of about 30 miles. Its surface is diversified by some volcanic masses, and by a few large Permian outliers, capped by basaltic sheets. One considerable mass of basalt forms Mount Dellenbaugh, in the southern part of the plateau, and around its base spreads out a large basaltic field. The eastern limit of the Sheavwits is at the foot of the Hurricane Ledge, one of the most striking of the strong geological and topographical features of the region.
C.E. Dutton, 1882
After spending the night near Kinney Point and then taking most of Thursday off so we could go to St. George for gas and food, we drove back out onto the Shivwits Plateau via various backroads until we ended up at the trailhead for Mount Dellenbaugh, which is the highest point on the Shivwits Plateau. We found a great campsite near the trailhead in the Ponderosa pine forest and spent the rest of the evening relaxing in the shade, reading and keeping cool. Then on Friday morning we were up before sunrise and started hiking up the Mount Dellenbaugh Trail.
There were very few views from along the trail, but here’s one shot I got of Mount Dellenbaugh along the way.
It was a pretty easy hike, mostly along an old closed road, to the summit.
Dellenbaugh, 1934
We spent quite a lot of time searching for the Bill Dunn inscription from 1869 that is supposed to be up here, but we just couldn’t find it and went away empty handed this time.
After our hike we were getting a little tired of the heat and decided we were both ready to call it a trip and head home a day early. I had been away from home for almost two weeks by now and was ready to get back a couple days before going back to work on Monday. We returned to St. George for lunch and then continued on home from there.
Driving past Diamond Butte on our way back to St. George.
